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Written by: -
Robert Runyard
Box 88071
Black Forest CO 80908 USA
Dates: - Dec 97 - Jan 98
Email: - bruixot@rmi.net
For photographs to accompany this report, take a look at: http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Island/3451/index.html
Comments: - General: Anyone who has been to Chile knows that Chilean
can be hard to understand. (In-country, you may want to look for the book on Chilenismos
"How to Survive in the Chilean Jungle" by John Brennan. Learn how to say
"Hey, babe!" in Chilean. Remember that the word "pastel" has
another slang connotation: dog shit. And so on...)
Fuel and food points can be far apart, particularly in the northern end of the Carretera
Austral between Chaiten and Coyhaique. Fatigue will lead you to make mistakes, like
forgetting to adequately lash your gear down, or allowing a loose bungee cord to slap your
face. The Carretera Austral region is similar to southern Alaska, but with a greater
feeling of edge-of-wilderness, at least in the northern end. The area south of Cerro
Castillo is quite interesting in part from the effects of the recent Volcan Hudson
eruption which caused drowning of the river valley and covered the area in pumice and ash.
Lago Carrera is spectacular. The side road west from Puerto Rio Tranquillo will take you
into splendid scenery if you have not already had enough. The roads, including the
Carretera Austral, are generally in good condition but there are occasional surprises, and
the gravel can pose problems for either motorcyclists or bicyclists. On dry days the dust
from passing vehicles can be choking. Avoid side trips which involve stream crossings
since the waters can be unexpectedly deep and the bottoms dissolve and let you sink
quickly into the loose rock and mud. Don't ask me how I know.
Exchange Rate: - varied, up to 450P/$US
Rating: - 7
Weather: - drizzle and rain - no surprises there
Terrain: - Much of the Carretera Austral is built on hilly to mountainous terrain, although the actual grade of the road, even on passes, is not such that would interfere with most vehicles. Bicyclists will find that the gravel and grades in the north, combined with the drizzle, make this a Not Recommended, unless you are willing to put up with significant discomfort in exchange for delightful scenery.
Hotels: - Sometimes camped. When staying in decent hotels and hostals, costs ranged from US$12 (for the Hostal Poirrot in Coyhaique) to about US$45 in Valdivia, at the very pleasant camping-lodge on the shore at Isla Teja. Typical, basic but complete meals in mainland Chile averaged about US$7 to 10. Costs in Carretera Austral area are often higher. Fuel was about US$3.00 a US gallon, with prices lower in Santiago and considerably more in the far south.
Route: - By motorcycle from Santiago area, mostly on secondary roads to Puerto Montt. From there by barcaza (ferry) to Chiloe Island. Messed about in Valdivia for a day enroute. To south end of Chiloe Island and took the barcaza to Chaiten - a crossing of about 7 hours. Remember to fuel up in Chiloe since the bomba in Chaiten is expensive and not always supplied. From Chaiten four days of gravel roads to reach Coyhaique. From there to almost the end of the Carretera Austral south of Cochrane (Carretera Austral is still under construction and you cannot go into the construction zone.) Thence return to Coihaique from Cochrane (a day's ride converted into 2 days to wander around and get into trouble again). Thence Puerto Aisen for barcaza ride: 26 hours back to Puerto Montt, and two days riding to return to near Santiago. Total of about 5000 km. There are other ways of doing the Carretera Austral. For example, you can start at Puerto Montt and go by road and barcaza (ferry) crossings on Route 7 toward Hornopiren.
Essentials: - For a motorcycle ride such as this, I recommend rugged
goretex clothing. I used a US military goretex jacket which flapped a little at high speed
but served well as compromise jacket for riding and trekking. A helmet visor which allows
air circulation is helpful. Waterproof gloves are essential and insulated gloves may at
times be needed.
Matterhorn brand boots are excellent, with goretex lining, Vibram soles and thinsulate
insulation. Due to drizzle/rain alternating with dusty days, substantial plastic bags are
very useful. I used "construction" 5 mil thickness 50 gallon bags with very good
results. For tent, avoid the types with mesh ceilings even when a rainfly is used,
since blowing wind and rain can defeat the rainfly protection. For navigation and local
sites of interest, you may do best with the Chilean TURISTEL guidebook, which includes
generally reliable maps. Map area strip-maps by photocopying the book's maps, and work
with the photocopies in pocket or tank-bag window. Bring along a waterproof pen.
Interests: - Motorcycling, Photography
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