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South American Explorers |
Written by: -
Lou Petterchak
963 Logan St., #12
Denver, Colorado 80203
Dates: - February/March 1998
Email: - lpetterc@denver.lib.co.us
Comments: - Cartagena: Carribean Spanish, difficult accent; Heavy
African influence, reminded me of Brazil. Try the beach in the day, the old city at night
when the sea breeze picks up. The street vendors are fierce, bargain hard, Castillo
San Felipe is incredible, rec., Be sure to check out the plazas away from the tourist
area, esp. Plaza Madrid (with great bar on corner), and even Plaza Santa Clara (??--the
plaza by the Hotel Santa Clara, worth checking out even if you cannot afford US$250 pp).
Internet cafe at Hotel Vienna and Cafe Olano, near San Pedro Claver. Also, a day
trip to Carnaval in Barranquilla, what a party!!
Mompox: Well, you probably won't get to see that fabulous total solar eclipse, but this
place is still worth visiting. Check out the amazing colonial churches, esp. Santa
Barbara, Religious Museum has some incredible pieces, the Cemetery gives you an idea
of Mompox historical importance, Chipi is a guide who knows the city & can take you on
a lagoon tour, lots of wildlife, bike rental at 19-37 Crra 2, near alcalde, quintessential
Latin American small town--can't find friendlier people!!
Leticia/Amazonas: "Muy Indio", distinct from Cartagena. Just an awesome
experience, this river. Our tour (Eco-Guias tour operator, see above, Jose Saavadera,
guide, rec.) included fishing from dugout canoes, Indian villages, campesino villages,
caiman
spotting, wildlife is mostly birds (all kinds), but also monkeys, dolphins, & bats
(Actually, Colombia is full of bats, pretty neat)
Bogota: Very sophisticated, cosmopolitan city, rather European, reminded me of BA Overall,
I would say Colombia is a fabulous place, too bad everyone from the US is too terrified to
visit (almost all of the travellers we ran into, and there were lots there for the
eclipse, were from Europe, Australia, etc. Street crime danger is way overrated, less
dangerous than Brazil, or even Peru. I am sure that there are some areas that should be
avoided due to the war, but other parts are fine, and Colombians are very friendly
people. There is obviously much more than I can include here, but this is probably
too long anyhow. Buen Viaje!!
Exchange Rate: - 1 US$ = 1300 Pesos
Rating: - 8
Weather: - Carribean Coast:Dry Season; Amazonas:High Water Season
Terrain: - Carribean Coast is coastal lowlands with rolling hills. Amazonas is flat jungle.
Hotels: - Cartagena: Baluarte, 10-81 Media Luna, $P 12000 single,
basic, adj rest. has good food
- Del Lago, La Matuna area (right on market), $40000 double, a/c, good affordable place to
explore old city from, with a/c. Nearby Monte Carlo is similar.
- Hotel Playa in Bocagrande, next to El Dorado, P$ 60000 double, a/c, incl. brkfst,
- Hotel Vienna (30-53 Calle San Andres, $5000 per bed, is the cheap hostal favored by
European rucksacking kids, bulletin board and web access for $P100 per minute) Everything
in Bocagrande is overpriced, better cheaper tourist food around Plaza Santo
Domingo in Old City, esp. Habanita (better & cheaper than Habana Vieja on Santa Clara
Plaza, Osito (there are 2 just off Plaza Bolivar & near Universidad), good comida
corriente (blue plate special for lunch) The arepas sold on the street, esp. in La Matuna
are not to be missed. Good handicrafts at Palenque (Plaza San Pedro) and in Claustro
San Francisco across from Convention Center
- In Mompox, Posados Virrey, 10000 $P pp, nice (should be cheaper most other times), Robin
Hood (Crra 2, between 2 main Plazas) and Pizzeria joint were good, as was Dona Manuela
(but $$$). Filigree jewelry is ubiquitious, and a great bargain in Mompox.
- In Leticia, Hostal Amazonas, $P 20000 pp, basic, but its the jungle
- In Bogota, Hotel San Sebastian in Candelaria, $P 37000 dbl, nice (after the jungle),
great barrio, but reputedly a tad dangerous at night. Casa Vieja (there are 3) and Ultima
Casa de los Virreyes, both great food, rec., $P 10000+
Route: - Discover Colombia Pass $600 + $100 for Leticia (Amazonas), RT
from Miami
Cartagena - Barranquilla 5000 P$, 2-3 hours, 6500 P$ 2 hrs, Brasilia (a/c)
Cartagena - Mompox 13000 P$, 8 hrs, Unitransco (via ferry)
Mompox - Bodega - Magangue - Cartagena: Jeep, 1 hr, 3000 P$; Boat 20 min., P$3000;
Bus, 5 hrs., 13000 P$ (Brasilia)
Amazonas: There were 6 of us and we had our own tour set up through Eco-Guias (based in
Bogota, see LP guide (ecoguias@impsat.net.co),
recommended
Essentials: - Cool clothes (very hot in Cartagena, hotter in Mompox, hotter still in Amazonas) Bug repellant, esp. for Amazonas, useful in Mompox when wetter (more malaria in Mompox than Amazonas). Sunscreen, as sun is very intense. VISA card, ATM card (Cirrus is most popular, Plus less so), and AMEX Travellers Cheques (ATM machines don't always work)
Interests: - Solar Eclipse
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