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South American Explorers |
Written by: -
Nigel Orton
North Carolina
Dates: - 12/96-1/97
Email: - nporton@eos.ncsu.edu
Rating: - 8
Weather: - dry season: Dec-Feb, weather was good
Hotels: - Basic accomodations & food available in both areas.
Route: - We hiked in 2 areas off the beaten track, both of which are
reasonably safe & quite scenic. 1st we went to Tierradentro, where there are many
indian tombs up on the hilltops. Highlights were the scenic countryside, the tombs, the
small villages in the area (worth their own day trips!) & the inexpensive but
delicious meals after the day's hike. We went for a fairly strenuous loop hike of about
6-7 miles over hilly terrain. Most of the tombs were robbed long ago, but some new ones
were found in the last few years, & their contents can be seen in a small museum. This
is a national historic site, so there is an office with some staff to answer questions,
& there is simple but comfortable lodging & food. This area can be reached by bus
from Popayan.
The other trip was to el Volcan de Purace. The volcano is roughly 4800
m (15,500) ft, & can be hiked in about 5 hours roundtrip from the National Park
facilities. The hike is strenuous, & altitude & storms can be a problem, so
be careful (I got a headache, but that's all, from the altitude. The weather was
excellent... start early in the morning to avoid PM thunderstorms!). The main highlight
was the scenery -- especially the view down into the Cauca valley 10,000 feet below! It is
also very interesting to see the changes in vegetation with altitude on the drive from
Popayan & on the hike up the volcano. The day hike up the volcano is worthwhile,
but (I'm told that) longer backpacking trips are also possible. We took a bus from Popayan
in the morning & hitched a ride back in the evening. A hostel, a restaurant, a ranger
station & a hot spring are located at the beginning/end of the hike.
I've rated both of these trips an 8 out of 10, because we had a great
time & they are certainly worthwhile, but they aren't what would generally be called
"must see" areas. I highly recommend these trips to those who enjoy the
outdoors & the culture, and want to get away from the tourist areas. Feel free
to send e-mail for more information!
Essentials: - Flashlight for Tierradentro... most of the tombs aren't well-lit
Interests: - Climbing, Touring, Trekki
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