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NAME: Tim Wenzel
ttwenzel@citynet.net
DATES:
November 1999
EXCHANGE:
1.92R$/US$
WEATHER:
intense sun
TERRAIN:
wild, desolate beaches and dunes punctuated by lagoons, rivers and
freshwater springs
TRIP RATING: 9
COUNTRY:
Brazil
ROUTE:
Varies from Salvador to Fortaleza (Brazil airpass)
taxi from airport to central beach area R$18
taxi from hotel to bus station R$8.20
bus from Fortaleza to Paracuru R$4.50 (company: Brasileiro) leaves
Fortaleza 5,6,8,10,13,14,15,16,17:00 every day, trip takes 2 hrs (approx.
100 km)
HOTELS:
Hotel Pousada Ondas Verdes | Fortaleza, Av. Beira Mar 934| R$40 double| good area of
town by beach, adequate facilities
Restaurante La Trattoria Alfio | Fortaleza, across street toward beach from Ondas
Verdes, 1 block NW |owned by a real Italian who tells great stories, excellent food,
vegetarian friendly
Pousada Villa Verde (Paracuru) | 2 blocks directly west from church in the main plaza |
R$40 double, newly refurbished, the best place we stayed in Brazil!
Restaurante Don Pedro's (Paracuru) | 1 block from beach | A charming little place,
great food.
ESSENTIALS:
sunscreen, hat!!
COMMENTS:
Fortaleza was merely a stopover on the way to Paracuru but its a nice city, lively on the
weekend! Paracuru is a little fishing village with a few pousadas but Villa Verde
was a gem. New units, sparkling clean in a quiet park-like setting (A/C which really
wasn't needed), excellent breakfast included, 2 blocks from beach. The town is
friendly and interesting but the beaches are the real attraction. To the east is a
very large sand dune. As you walk west there are a number of springs for rinsing off
the salt water. Further on civilization disappears as you approach the river. At low
tide the river can be crossed without difficulty (watch out when the tide is going out as
the current is very strong and the bottom uneven - in this case cross the various channels
further inland). Once across this area there is nothing at all but wild beach.
Further on and inland a bit you can arrive at Lagoinha, from which it is possible
(but not certain) that you can get a taxi back to Paracuru. The price will be about
R$30 according to one driver in Paracuru. Bring water and food. Be advised that
after a few days in Paracuru you won't care if you don't see the sun for another 6 months.
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