About SAE: Membership Services: Join/Renew : |
|
 |
South American Explorers |
Name: Gary Jakacky
E-mail: nagaisan@hotmail.com
Address: Tokyo, Japan
Dates: February March 1999
Exchange Rate: 1$= 500 Chilean Pesos, =1 Argentine Peso (linked)
Weather: Dry in desert; variable and cold in Mountains. Some cloudy areas on Argentine side of mountains
Terrain: Hilly dry coast and interior coastal regions gives way to Andean Cordillera and 4000+ meters near chilean border with argentina. Little or no vegetation near coast, greener and more pleasant at higher elevations.
Rate: 10
Route:
Cycling whole way. PanAm in most regions, some smaller both paved and unpaved that go
east/west over the mountains at various points. ARICA: cross into Chile on PanAm from
Tacna. Crossing was sane but border Drug police can be heavy handed and corrupt. Get your
business done and move on. You enter the Atacama desert as you leave Arica. For simplicity
I will say that water and food points are distributed along the desert route frequently
enough that a rider capable of going 100+ KM a day will not have unduly long stretches
without available services. More exact information is available on my website at
http://www.chosin.com. I recommend riders take the coast road from Iquique to Antofogasta
as it is very scenic and has frequent services. Inland, southbound riders may pick up a
tailwind near the end of the day...on the coast, though, the winds blow from the southwest
almost all the time. The road surfaces are excellent in most places (EXCEPTION: road from
Humberstone to Iquique). Wild camping is safe, I Had no problem. Friendly traffic as cars,
buses, trucks honked, flashed lights, waved, stopped and offered food and water, etc.
Desert begins to lose its grip near Chanaral, and technically ends at Copiapo, a beautiful
city with a great bike shop, BIMAN. Ask the info center on the square. Its a good idea to
clean your bike at this point as the dry sand and dust muck up your axle grease and grind
your cones to nothing. The road south to La Serena sees increasing vegetation and
services. La Serena is also a worthwhile stop. From here turn EAST up the staggeringly
beautiful, very European looking Elqui valley. The road is paved until you hit Guanta.
ALMOST NO FOOD is available beyond this point, although the border guards have a kitchen
at Juntos and scattered shepherds and riders can offer bread and water. Up you go over a
moderately sandy dirt road to Paso Agua Negra, at 4765 meters a lofty, desolate, windy,
cold and breathless crossing. This pass is popular with local riders though due to its
height and proximity to Santiago..it is part of a loop with Cristo Redentor further south.
Continue down to Rodeo, where you start picking up better pavement. The water in the
streams is potable at the higher elevations, by the way. Take note of the odd ice
formationsknown as Les Penitentes, near both sides of the pass. You can wild camp all thru
this region.
From rodeo, where they have food and currency exchange in a pinch at the
restaurant/store on the left just as you enter the town, continue south thru Iglesia to
San Juan. The road here is good and the cordillera on your right escorts you up a rather
nasty climb. Not much food is available so grab stuff in Iglesia; but wild camping near
the top of the hill is safe and secure. The road to Mendoza is clear and presents no
problems. Turn west at Mendoza, following signs for Lujan de Cujo and Uspallata, and begin
your climb back oveer the mountains at Cristo Redentor. All the towns along the way
up..Uspallata, Polveradas, Puenta del Inca, Puenta de Vacas, etc, have food and services.
As you near the top of the pass the mountains turn savagely beautiful, snow capped, tower
above you and squeeze the road and valley into a narrower and narrower space. At the top,
you can ride or walk your bike through the old railway tunnel under the mountain. You then
have an even more rapid descent. The road past Portillo features 25 switchbacks. Its a
steady downhill into steadily greener and warmer country to Los Andes. From here you can
turn south and negotiate the maze near Santiago, or continue to the coast at Vina del Mar
recommended)
Where to Stay: Strongly recommend Bike shop BIMAN in Copiapo..he has a guestbook of past riders, and lots of equipment and fast repairs. In La Serena, I was corraled into a lovely private home for 2 days by the family of Don Gonzales, Avenida Peni #421, where they had rooms available for 3000 pesos a night.
Essentials: For paso Agua negra, which comes close to 16,000 feet, you must have warm clothing and food to cook and keep ya warm. The water in my water bottle foze within half an hour of sunset.
General Comments: Just awesome variety of terrain from dry desert, freezing mountains, lush green valleys and barren dunes, miles of isolation and chattering inner city coffee shops. This area is what cycling mountains is all about. Definitely recommend it for anyone who rides in South America as part of an extended tour. There are no formal currency exchange facilities anywhere on Paso Agua Negra, so try and get your currency in La Serena before you head east.
About SAE: Membership Services: Join/Renew : |
|
|
South American Explorers |